Sidi Kaouki: a crossroad in the dessert

“Quickly, quickly run to the restaurant, or you won’t have dinner tonight.” Sidi Kaouki is a small settlement south of Essaouira. It can’t be called a village. It’s more of a crossroads of two roads with some houses around it. In the evening, it’s dark. There is no street lighting. In the distance, flashlights dance along the unpaved road through the night. Very occasionally, a car passes by. It is very quiet. Amidst the sound of the waves, you sometimes hear dogs barking in the distance. Sometimes nearby. Sometimes very close.

At the crossroads, by the beach, there are three small eateries. They can’t be called restaurants. You have to inform them every day if they should count on you that evening. It usually involves fish with tea. While the waves break and the dogs bark.

Sidi Kaouki region, Morocco, december 2022